The first country I visited which you could say was a land of ice and fire, a fantastic mix of winter ascents of volcanoes and camping in the ancient monkey puzzle forests. We didn't see many other people so we existed in a little bubble, driving in our hire car along rubble tracks to our next destination. "Don't be gentle, it's a rental" took on a whole new meaning! Accidental forays onto military bases (Chilean soldiers are very friendly), river crossings, landslides, smoking volcanoes, bivvies overlooking the Argentine border and more. An exciting adventure.